Even though there is a six hour bus ride available, this time we opted to fly from Sofia to Belgrade. Time is the air is a short hour and ten minutes, and even though you need to be at the airport 2 hours early for an international flight, it is the shortest and easiest way to travel. Upon arrival in our new city, passport control went smoothly and there were plenty of taxis to take us to the city center for 4000 RSD ($36). Make sure you have some Dinar on hand, as cab drivers only accept cash here unless you order one from a local taxi app. If you are staying here for any amount of time, the taxi apps are the best way to avoid haggling with your driver or exorbitant surge pricing.
We are staying in the charming Vracar neighborhood, a 40 minute walk from the center of town. Our second floor studio may be small, but it has an enormous patio overlooking our shared yard. The neighbors are welcoming and our host is one of the best we have had thus far. Upon arrival, he explained it was best to register with the local police to obtain our “White Papers”, documentation stating how long you will be staying in Serbia. We were grateful for the heads up as we were unaware that we needed them. After getting our paperwork sorted out he gave us a tour of the neighborhood; including all the best stalls in the Bazar to shop at, the best bakery, burek stand, and sundry shops.
Our first weekend was spent down by the waterfront, making our way to Belgrade Fortress for the afternoon. Being the most visited tourist attraction in Belgrade, it boasts over 2 million visitors annually. The Fort is loved by locals too; inside the fortress walls are several trendy cafe/bars filled with large friend groups and families enjoying each other’s company. The fort dates back to as early as 3rd century BC, when the Thracians were defeated by the Celts. The fortress was later taken by the Romans, attempts were also made by the Goths and the Huns (378-441 AD) to claim the much sought territory. There is a legend that Atilla’s grave lies at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers underneath the Fortress itself.
Entrance is free and the grounds are tremendous… it can easily fill an afternoon with exploration. In the backside of the fort by the military museum lies an outdoor exhibit of tanks, artillery, torpedoes and more. There was also a paid special exhibition featuring midievil torture devices at the time of our visit.
To escape the sun on a particularly warm day we sought refuge at the Jevremovas Botanical Garden, located in Stari Grad. The garden, founded in 1874 by decree of the Ministry of Education, is property of the University of Belgrade and maintained by the School of Biology. Price for admission is only 400 RSD ($3.70), an afternoon can easily be spent enjoying the varying flora (2,500 plant species) across 11.9 acres. The greenhouse is packed full of 1,000 succulents, tropical and sub-tropical plants. Parts of the structure itself were manufactured, then transported from Dresden, Germany. It is a beautiful building constructed in the Victorian secession style.
Of course there are no shortage of cafes and bars, but a few favorites of mine are Black Peter and Queens pub. Both offering completely different vibes and ambiance. Black Peter has a beautiful back garden with a huge canopy of varying fruit trees. It is tranquil and cool, a perfect place to escape the current heat wave we have been experiencing. At night it is filled with live music and locals, sharing plates of mezze and bottles of wine. In the afternoon, a quiet oasis, perfect for enjoying an excellent cup of coffee.
The Queens Pub is a hidden gem close to the city center. Non-descript from the outside, cozy feel in. The Bartender will make sure you have the perfect drink; when ours realized we wanted some Rakia, he was delighted to recommend something local and delicious. Ice cold beers on tap are served with the best peanuts I have ever eaten. Our host also played music he thought we would enjoy; from Siousxie and the Banshees, Peter Murphy, Sisters of Mercy and more. We jokingly mused that this is the only acceptable way to be profiled.
The food, just like most Balkan countries are quite meat-centric, but there is always something for vegetarians too. Salads are simple and fresh, our favorite currently is Serbian Salad; diced tomatoes, cucumbers, onions and hot pepper called feferon. It is lightly dressed with olive oil and vinegar and makes a great fresh side if you are having something from the grill. We were also pleasantly surprised finding an amazing little Mexican restaurant, Zapata, where we enjoyed some loaded nachos on homemade tortilla chips alongside sizzling fajitas with summer vegetables. They make an amazing Margarita, which has been few and far between in our travels. Our favorite local place is Restaurant Cubura, the Cevapi with Kaymak is exceptionally good, some of the best in the Balkans. While you are in Serbia it is an absolute must to have the national dish pljeskavica, a mixture of minced beef, pork and lamb meat, onions and sometimes kackavalj cheese. Mc Dek is a local favorite and fortunately only 50 meters from our place. You can get two pljeskavica and a coke for 860 RSD ($8).
There is no shortage of monuments, museums and sights to see in Belgrade. The Temple of St. Sava is a Serbian Orthodox church on the Varcar plateau close to where we are staying. It was constructed on the presumed location of St. Savas grave. St. Sava was known as The Enlightener; he was a Serbian prince, Orthodox monk and first Archbishop of the Serbian Church. He also established the monastery of Hilandar, one of the most important cultural and religious centers of the Serbian people. As archbishop, he authored the oldest known constitution of Serbia, and is regarded as the founder of Serbian medieval literature. St. Sava is the patron saint of Serbia, Serbs, and Serbian education. The church is the largest Orthodox church in Serbia, fashioned after the Hagia Sophia, and ranks one of the largest in the world. It can host 7,000, and has choir seating for 800. The interior is one of the most dazzling displays of mosaic I have witnessed, hundreds of intricate works of saints, Jesus’s life and the virgin Mary adorned with angels. It absolutely glows in gold, the light playing off the mosaic is breathtaking. St. Sava is an incredible feat of modern architecture and design. The first stone was laid in 1935, but it was consecrated in 2004. Although being a relatively modern building, the space transports you to another time.
The National Museum of Serbia, located in Republic Square, is the oldest and largest in Belgrade. The museum’s collection has grown to over 400,000 objects, 300,000 of those being Numismatics (coins, medals, rings and seals). There is also an expansive medieval collection, along with a huge collection of artworks from Serbian, Italian, Dutch, Russian, English, Japanese and German artists. the site also houses rare pieces from Degas, Renoir, Cezanne, Matisse, Picasso and an exquisite work by my favorite artist, Hieronymus Bosch. A mere 300 RSD ($2.70), it is a must visit during a stay in Belgrade. We spent hours perusing the enormous collection of varying artworks, including artifacts from ancient times. It was so great to see such an expansive collection of paintings from the Serbians during the 17th and 18th centuries. In particular, Katarina Ivanovic and Konstantin Danil, some of the most beautiful paintings I have seen from this period.
The House of the National Assembly of the Republic of Serbia is located downtown on Nicola Pasic Square. Built by King Peter I and completed in 1936, the 13,800 m building is in Edwardian neo-baroque style. The city is full of incredible examples of classical architecture.
The Church of St. Mark is another Serbian Orthodox church dedicated to the Holy Apostle and Evangelist Mark. The building was completed in 1940 in Serbia-Byzantine style by Petar and Brando Krstic, both professors of Architecture at the University of Belgrade. This beautiful monument is located in Tasmajdan Park, an expansive 9.84 hectares of greenspace located in the municipality of Palilula.
Belgrade is an extremely walkable city, there are many different experiences available by foot. Knez Mihailova Street (Prince Michael Street) is the main pedestrian zone in Old Town. It stretches from Republic Square to the Old Fortress and is one of the oldest and most significant streets in Belgrade. It is teeming with shops, delicious street food, cafes and often live music. Alongside the large walkways are old mansions built in the late 1800s, perfectly preserved and repurposed into storefronts, restaurants, offices, chic hotels and apartments. The street was originally planned in a central grid layout by the Romans as early as the first century. When digging for the Rajiceva shopping center in 2004, a cache of antiquities like coins, ceramics, and lamps were discovered and dated to 3rd century. It is both baffling and awe-inspiring to know this street has been used for two millennia.
Summer is full of things to do, but Belgrade Beer Fest was by far the most fun. There were heavy rains the night we were supposed to go, but by 9pm the sky had cleared and we headed to the Usce neighborhood where the festivities were held. The night was packed full of local craft beers; the fest boasts 300+ offerings from Serbia and beyond. Local acts played on three different stages; a rock stage, the main event stage and the electro stage. Carnival rides were filled with families having fun and the main stage was teeming with Serbs of all ages singing along to their favorite Goblini songs. It was an amazing, albeit humid night. We drank some delicious craft beers and throughly enjoyed the variety of music.
Belgrade is a fascinating city with rich culture and profound history. The Serbian people are warm and friendly; they show a deep affection for their friends and families. You can feel the sense of community here and are invited to be a part of it. During our stay some expressed concern as how they are viewed from the outside, Serbia remains one of the safest places I have traveled to. It is a clean, beautiful place full of lovely people and incredible food. This ancient city has so much to offer, each neighborhood is its own little gem in this treasure filled place.