There is a 5 hour bus from Skopje to Sofia for 1300 MKD (approx $23). Although it was a long journey, the countryside is absolutely spectacular. Lush rolling green hills speckled with small villages, craggy mountains, loads of orchards and small farms are seen along the way. Yellow and white wisteria adorn the towering trees and sparkling rivers twist throughout the breathtaking landscape. We arrived late afternoon to our new flat, a seventh floor apartment located in Sofia Center. After a quick refresh we were ready to scope out our new city and get some delicious food.

Sofia is a bustling city full of music and culture. It is the largest city in Bulgaria, home to 1,200,000 and is also the 14th largest city in the European Union. It has been established as early as second century BC by the Thracian people and later became a stronghold of the Roman Empire in 4th century. Like most Balkan nations, Sofia was under Ottoman rule in the 15th century. The city is like a quilt crafted from many different architectural styles and religious monuments, sewn together with abundant lush green spaces.

There are some really special parks in Sofia, but none as great as Borisova Grandina Park. It is the oldest and most beloved park, named after the Bulgarian Tsar Boris III. Borisova is an enormous space filled with lush grassy fields, multiple rose gardens, and meandering paths of acacia, elm and mulberry trees. There are also cafes and restaurants throughout to grab some traditional food, a cold beverage and coffee of course.

Our first weekend was full of surprises. The Lunar Festival of Lights was going on; 13 of the most iconic buildings in town each had amazing morphing displays of differing art, music, or messages to the world. You could meander through the city streets to the next exhibit by foot easily, and there were thousands out enjoying the show. All were timed perfectly as you arrived and would cycle every few minutes if you missed anything. It was a memorable experience, the amount of artistry and time used to create these moving pictures is awe inspiring.

The following night we had a perfectly crafted cocktail at the Barfly, a cool second story bar overlooking Vitosha Blvd, one of the main streets through town. They have live DJ’s on the weekends, but it is a tiny establishment. If you want to avoid the crowds late evening is the best time to visit. Located next door is the Pizza Point, a local slice shop where we stopped many a night during our monthly stay. The staff is kind and efficient, making a variety of delicious pizzas available till 12 AM.

Night Life in Sofia is incredible. We were fortunate to have stumbled onto a free live show by ClavExperience, a brilliant trio of beat boxing, jazzy synths and silky smooth vocals. Several food trucks were nearby and families and friends ate and drank while soaking up the incredible vibe. After their set we were able to meet them to tell them how incredible they were; they are modest, gracious and ridiculously talented.

Each weekend there was a little special something’s scattered throughout Sofia. One night after picking up some Bratwurst at Wurstrasse, we heard alluring music floating down the street. Following our ears (and noses), we arrived at a lively block party, complete with ice cream, food and beer vendors along with amazing DJ’s.

On one particularly gorgeous afternoon we saw traditional dancing; which was so lovely because as people walked by, they joined the winding train of dancers holding hands. There is so much community and love of culture in Bulgaria, it is infectious. The people are so kind, not just to each other, but to travelers as well. We felt very welcomed and at home here.

Sofia is clean, beautiful and green. Some of the best street art I have ever seen adorn the buildings in town. There are so many museums to visit too, our stay wasn’t close to enough time to see even a fraction of what this city has to offer. We spent an afternoon in the Cathedral of Alexander Nevsky, a Bulgarian Orthodox Church built in a Neo-Byzantine style. It is a massive 34,100 sq ft building that can host 5,000 people. It is the largest Eastern Orthodox building in the Balkans, and also makes one of the top 10 in the world. In the crypt of the Cathedral is an incredible collection of Orthodox Icons, the largest of its kind in Europe. If you are a fan of religious iconography it is a must see.

Another highlight of our stay was “Grind Over Sofia”, an annual metal festival comprised of bands from all over the Balkans and beyond. It was hosted at the OldSkulls Club, one of the few rock clubs in town. They serve a variety of ice cold local beers and incredible grilled food if you are hungry. The crowd was lively and the acts were awesome. There is a great scene here, once again, a warm and welcoming community feel.

We were also lucky to have spent an evening celebrating 9 years of Bira Bar, our favorite local watering hole featuring a selection of rotating craft beers both local and afar. It is strictly a beer bar with no food, but it is a special little neighborhood meet up. We met some incredible people here during our stay.

There is a seemingly infinite amount of cool cafes, cocktail bars, and delicious places to eat. At night the young people gather in the parks and listen to music and hang out with friends. The main promenades are packed with families sharing meals together or groups of adults having coffee and drinks. The are great street food offerings if you are wanting to stroll as you snack, a much beloved pastime of my own. Sofia has everything… beauty, culture, food and amazing people. I will deeply miss this enchanting city and can’t wait to return to visit the mountain towns and explore the natural wonders of this incredible country.