Mostar, the capital of Herzegovina, is a small fairytale like city situated on the Neretva River. Just over 100,000 people call this charming place home, although it is a mecca for tourists of all kind year round. Mostar was named after the bridge keepers, or mostari, who guarded the Stari Most (Old Bridge) during the Ottoman era. The bridge was commissioned by Suleiman the Magnificent during the 16th century; it is considered one of the finest pieces of Islamic architecture in the Balkans.
Getting to Mostar from Nis, Serbia was not the easiest of travels. We had to take the 3 hour bus ride back to Belgrade the day before our flight. The airport is easy to navigate due to its smaller size, but nothing was more surprising than our arrival in Mostar after our 1:10hr flight. We had a slightly dicey landing in between the mountains that surround the city. There was a white knuckle moment when the pilot was maneuvering the plane to land on the solo small dirt runway; fortunately he was able to right the plane just before landing. It was truly a breathtaking experience. The Mostar Airport is the smallest I have encountered in our travels, the airport staff could have been a couple dozen people. Luckily this made our border crossing the fastest we have encountered, although after grabbing our bags we realized we may not be able to get a cab to town. After sitting in the tiny lone cafe in the airport lobby, having an espresso and getting our new phone ESIM to work, we were fortunate enough to have a cabbie come into the airport and ask us if we needed a ride. The timing could not have been more perfect, and we gratefully accepted.
Our apartment is a short 20 min walk to town, it is nice being a bit further up the mountain away from the hordes of tourists. It is clean and modern, but decorated with a 70s vibe. The surrounding neighborhood is quiet and we have a beautiful view of the mountains from our private second floor terrace. There are a few small markets and one restaurant and cafe nearby, so it is a true local vibe. Restaurant Novak is only 50 meters from our place, conveniently right next to the market. The food is abundant, local and delicious. The chef has brought us little extras from time to time; local cheese, Sirnica (a savory pie filled with fresh cow cheese, sour cream and eggs), and a delicious savory puffed dough similar to a beignet, minus the powdered sugar.
Old town is filled with incredible architecture; a diverse range of styles from Islamic, neoclassical and secessionist. The oldest bridge in town is the Kriva Cuprija, or “sloping bridge “ built in 1558 by Cejvan Kethoda as a test for Stari Most. The single arch Old Bridge is considered to be one of the greatest architectural achievements of the Ottomans, and remains a marvel to this day. Flanking the bridge are the Halebija and Tara towers, which housed the bridges guardians during Ottoman times. During the weekends you can see daredevils bridge diving for tourists, as long as they have collected enough money to do so, of course. From the bridge is an exquisite view of the Neretva River, as well as the Koski Mehmed Pasa Mosque. The mosque, built in 1617, is open to visitors for free; the minaret is also open to the public and photographs are allowed, unlike many religious sites throughout our travels.
The summer months are brutally hot; most days in August are over 35c (95f). The last week has been 40c (104f) which makes it difficult to enjoy being outside. Tourists cool themselves on the beachfront on the river, or enjoy a cold beer in the shade at the many stands along the beach. We have been waiting to go out in the evening when it is a tolerable 30c. Although there is not a ton in the way of night life here, there are no shortages of fantastic restaurants and beer halls filled with local craft offerings. The best thing about the people of Herzegovina is their laid back vibe. They are friendly and welcoming, also appreciative of the beautiful place in which they live. Since it is such a small city, everyone knows everyone, exchanging warm embraces and kisses for all of their neighbors and friends. There is a deep sense of fellowship and pride, which is also expressed to the many visitors that come to this magical place.
Coming home from tasting some Cooltura beers at ti&ja on night, we stumbled across Mo Fest, the annual jazz festival located in the heart of town. Summer in the Balkans is filled with these amazing offerings; there is nothing better than free music to enjoy at night after the temperature drops. Jazz is not normally my thing, but Bigesty Jazz Sextet was excellent. Powerful vocals, upright bass, a brilliant pianist, accompanied by two brass badasses and wailing guitar. The set was incredible, and also the festival beer prices, just 4 marks ($2) for a local lager. The festival wants to make Mostar a center for jazz enthusiasts, further expanding their cultural appeal.
The city is filled with murals, the bland concrete facades of the buildings make for perfect canvases to create. In the Fassadenmalerei you can see an impressive collection of diverse artworks created by the local youth in Mostar. The Rezon foundation is behind the art, with its aim to revitalize public spaces through their multicultural and multigenerational collaborations of local artists. The people here deeply care about bringing culture to this incredible city through art, music and food.
Mostar is an incredibly beautiful and lovely place to visit. When planning a trip here make sure it is in spring or fall, summer is too hot! Unless of course you like the heat, if so, you will love it. Spend some time away from the local tourist areas, although they are all worth seeing. The best food and local hang outs are in the downtown area away from old town. I was so happy to have stayed here, it is a must if you are traveling the Balkans.
