Larnaca is a picturesque city on the southeast coast of Cyprus; built upon the ruins of the ancient Greek city state Citium. It is most known for its sprawling sandy beaches and shallow water, making it perfect for families with young children. The sparkling water is calm and the well kept beaches completely sandy, unlike most European beaches we have seen in our travels thus far. Larnaca is just an hour bus ride from Nicosia; they run daily on the half hour, which is good considering they are first come first served. Our first attempt to board the 2pm bus failed as the passing transport was marked full, but the 2:30 thankfully had enough room. A few stops later we were already at max capacity again, so keep that in mind when traveling in the busy summer season. We are here in Mid February, so it is easy to imagine public transport being a challenge in peak season.
February is an amazing time to visit Larnaca, the weather is sunny and balmy. Most days were between 18-22c (65-72f). The nights are a bit chilly, but a light jacket is perfect; most restaurants and bars have gas heaters to keep you toasty during your evenings out. The streets are filled at night with local music, smells of delicious food and jovial patrons enjoying themselves. Larnaca is a small but quaint city, filled with tavernas and cafes to enjoy unique craft cocktails with ingredients like mastic (known as the tears of Chios, it is a resin obtained from the Mastic tree). Mastic has a protective effect on intestinal epithelial cells, and is also used for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It has an unusual flavor, the closest I can compare would be lychee, but not as sweet.
We stayed in a charming 4th floor apartment a mere three blocks from the beach. Berezka, an Eastern European deli just a block from our apartment was a highlight during our stay. Each week we loaded up on cabbage filled potato pancakes and sirniki (a quark, or curd cheese pancake). Across the street was Central Shisha, a great spot for mystery cocktails. Next door was Gregory’s cafe for pies and coffee, and Juicy Fresh bar; where you can order any combo of fruit and vegetable juice for 5€. There are hundreds of places to grab a bite or drink delicious Cypriot coffee; we felt spoiled to have so many options within a stones throw of our accommodations.
Finikoudes is the main promenade along Athenon Avenue, stretching the length of the waterfront. Down the main drag by the beach is the Medieval Fort and Djami Kebir Mosque. Tickets to the Fort are only 2.50€. There is a small museum and good views from the walls; however the fort closes at 4pm. Unfortunately, you are unable to see the sunset from the fortress. Just head a few blocks down the beachfront to Alasia for the best moussaka and a lemon squash while the sun sets on the glittering water from their lovely patio.
The Church of St. Lazarus is the heart of town. It is a 9th century Greek Orthodox Church named for Lazarus of Bethany, whom was allegedly brought back to life four days after his death by Jesus. In 890, a tomb was found in Larnaca bearing the inscription, “Lazarus, four days dead, friend of Christ”. Emperor Leo IV had the remains transferred to Constantinople, which were later looted by the Forth Crusade in the early 13th century. As recompense, the Church was erected over Lazarus’ tomb. It is a combination of Byzantine, Gothic and Baroque architecture. The iconostasis was completed in 1782 by Chatzisavvas Taliadorou. During restoration after a devastating fire in 1970, remains were discovered in a marble sarcophagus, with speculation that some of Lazarus’ remains still remained.
The nights are cool but comfortable at 16c, making February a great time to enjoy Larnaca night life. Streets are filled with tourists, expats and locals enjoying the best of this intimate city. There are some great pubs and rock bars; namely Savino, Dylan’s, and Diho’s. Our favorite nights were at Diho’s, the friendly barkeep provides plenty of snacks, great music and even treated us to a large pour of whisky. Our last night there we were enjoying a particularly lovely evening until the pub was overrun with seasonal skydivers whom all had one too many. It was a lively end to our stay for sure.
If you are looking for a more tame evening out, across from the Holy Church of St. Lazarus is the Secret Garden wine and coffee bar. Strangely most patrons sit on the street, (which undeniably has the best view of the church) or inside at the bar window overlooking the street happenings. Perhaps it is why the garden is secret, you may not even see it street-side. Nevertheless, it is a gorgeous oasis from the bustling street; filled with comfy seating, art, sculpture, water features and loads of plants. The owner and his brother run the place, two lovely British lads with the best taste in music. When they found out we were Siouxsie and the Banshees fans we shared a great conversation and they put on their best playlist. Two very cool and hospitable gents whom make amazing cocktails, snacks and the very best sangria.
There are some small museums and archaeological sites scattered throughout town, but we were happy to just relax and walk along the beach during our downtime stopping for a daily cup of Cypriot coffee. We did head to the salt lake while we were here to see the flamingo migration. The salt lake is loaded with small shrimp and krill. The flamingos feast during winter until they are pink from the beta carotene found in the shrimp.
If you are looking for some sandy beaches and chill vibe, Larnaca is definitely worth a visit. I would strongly recommend coming when it is slightly pre-season. The water is warm, the beach is sparsely populated and you have no trouble finding a place to relax and drink coffee at the waterfront. In summer temperatures soar and the crowds can be unbearable (from what our host mentioned). Be sure to stop and eat some Mezze at Sultan during your stay, an amazing Lebanese restaurant on the promenade. And drink as much Cypriot coffee as you can, you will miss it when you leave.
