There is no shortage of places to eat and drink at in this town; there are some really special places to enjoy a meal, coffee or cocktails. The best view in town is The Observator, located on the 13th floor above the Spar grocery on Rruga e Saraceve. It is apparently a piano bar, but the several times we visited they instead played some downtempo house music from their gorgeous patio. The panoramic view is surrounded by flowers and fresh herbs for their signature cocktails. The best time to go is at sunset, which can be crowded at times outside, so be sure to get there in the late evening before the light show begins.

Just down the street a few blocks is Vila Shijaku off Siri Korda street, one of the oldest houses in Tirana and home of the Sali Shijaku family. Shijaku is a beloved 20th century Albanian painter whose works are displayed throughout the villa; a small gallery is available for tours by request from his family. The cafe itself is a quiet oasis transporting you from busy Tirana to a seemingly other time. It is a wonderful place to spend an afternoon, escaping the summer sun in a canopy of palms and large brick wall that hugs this incredible space. It is full of history, tortoises, cats and fine art, with a side of perfect espresso.

The greatest pizza in Tirana is Pizzarte, a proper Napolitano pizza perfectly cooked in their enormous pizza oven. Although the vibe could be a bit better, the pizza is worth the lack of ambience. It is a small cafe type place with street seating on busy Rruga Luigj Gurakuqi. They have an astronomical amount of pizzas available, entire sections dedicated to both vegans and vegetarians too. You can also get most of their pizzas folded into a calzone, which though delicious does not compare to their regular pizzas. Pair your pie with their generously poured house wine for 300lek ($3 dollars), it is one of the cheapest and best places to come for a satisfying meal.

To experience the best traditional food in town visit Oda Garden, the ambience and food are incredible and they play traditional music mixed with covers of favorites every evening at 8(ish). The waitstaff here are gracious and truly care about their guests having an amazing experience. Oda offers an array of traditional foods, the greatest being the stuffed eggplant or peppers, grilled vegetables or meats with a side of ridiculously good homemade bread. If you plan on spending the evening listening to music while you eat, be sure to make a reservation; each night is packed with people and once full they decline any walk in guests. The beautiful canopy of lime trees offer shade and the small kittens that courageously climb them unique entertainment. You can enjoy an amazing meal with Puka beer for 2000leks ($20).

There are some exceptional cocktail spots in town that offer a variety of vibes. If you are looking for a relaxed atmosphere with indie music, Radio Room is for you. An eclectic collection of vintage toys, curiosities and seating decorate this colorful patio, including sewing machine tables to enjoy your drinks at. The raki cocktails are unparalleled, especially the Rakiberry… a libation crafted with muddled fresh berries and blackberry raki. Their bloody Mary’s are a fresh snack within itself, featuring a half carrot and whole fresh stalk of celery and spiced to perfection. All beverages are served with complimentary whole peanuts roasted in rock salt. Most drink spots here will offer you a snack, most commonly pistachios, almonds or Chipsy brand chips (special mention for the tzatziki flavor).

If you are looking to enjoy a pint of Guinness beer, New Irish Pub is the place to go. The staff here are so welcoming, the beer cold and albeit expensive, a great place to enjoy it. The bar is hidden behind Salt Sushi, there is a small walkway back behind the restaurant which gives it a kind of speakeasy vibe. They offer trivia and karaoke nights, but our favorite time to visit was early evening after the heat of the day. We felt like friends after a few visits, and our favorite bartender gave us some amazing snacks, shots and big hugs from everyone when we said it was our last visit. We left with full bellies and hearts knowing we were going to be missing such amazing people. The hospitality of the Albanian people is unmatched so far in our travels, it is true that Albanians are the most friendly people in the world.

There is some awesome street art in Tirana, but my favorite piece was also a landmark for Bitter Bistro. Owned by a Californian named Kelly, you could get some great American fare… avocado toast, sliders with fries and aioli, or a crisp wedge salad. It is a beautiful space inside, but everyone enjoys their spacious patio located down a short alley. There are a lot of places you have to search for, or keep your eyes out for street signs pointing the way. This is one of many hidden gems. We had some great conversations with both Kelly and his staff. The bartender was a metal head and we instantly clicked when she saw our metal tshirts. It was refreshing to meet someone with similar tastes; the music scene here is very much pop oriented and not in a good way. Yet another place where you feel at home, amazing food, service and atmosphere.

Nouvelle Vague is another craft cocktail spot, priding themselves on innovative twists to classic cocktails. The inside is an explosion of color, but in true Albanian style everyone prefers to sit outside on the comfy pillow covered benches. The music is a combination of world music, reggae, jazz-funk and soul. It is a welcome haven, escaping the common pop filled cafes and bars. The bartenders and servers alike will take their time making sure you select the proper cocktail for your mood, offering their favorites as well. Our incredible server treated us to their fruit and cinnamon house raki, a dangerous and delicious drink.

A few blocks away is Ayla Bakllava and Kynefe, if you are in the mood for something simultaneously savory and sweet. Kynefe is a spun pastry called kataifi cooked in butter or palm oil, layered with Nabulsi cheese, topped with chopped pistachio and finally drenched in a rose water and orange blossom syrup. It satisfies every taste craving and is paired with a Turkish coffee or tea, an instant pick me up that can be had at any time of day. Ayla’s bakllava is tasty, but if you are choosing to have just one treat, have a Kynefe, an unusual and delicious snack.

A special shout out to the Illyrian Saloon, definitely the coolest bar in town. Regretfully I didn’t any pics, but it is owned by two brothers who pride themselves having a hand built space filled with neon, posters, and suspended high tops in the intimate patio outside. Unusual drinks and raki shots are their signature, although they also offer a good selection of imported craft beers. The raki is handmade by their father and uncle with seasonal fruit, the tastiest being quince and apricot. The owner poured us some local whisky and offered some great conversation with the drinks. He shared with us the good and hidden darker side of Albania; it is refreshing to be able to talk about controversial subjects and share opinions and experiences without being offensive/offended . The people here are candid, open and respectful; if there are differences in opinion they still embrace yours with curiosity. The country is beautiful and the food amazing, but the best thing about Albania is the people.