Zagreb, the capital and largest city in Croatia is home to 1.2 million people. It lies along the Sava river at the base of Medvednica mountain. Though it is considered an important tourist center, there are parts of the city away from the center that are more relaxed and have a local feel. Great pubs and some amazing restaurants are scattered throughout the newer side of the city away from Old Town. Having come from Bosnia, we did experience some sticker shock. Everything is more expensive in Croatia, but being on the Euro it was expected.

Zagreb’s rich history dates back to Roman times. The city sits on top of the ancient Roman town of Andautonia, which existed between the 1st and 5th centuries AD. It is a mash up of old and new, beautifully preserved classical buildings are nestled between their shiny, modern counterparts. Zagreb is a clean and well groomed city; many perfectly manicured green spaces for families and friends to gather, the old cobblestone streets filled with small shops of local goods and hand crafted clothing, as well as a plethora of hip restaurants and cafes throughout.

Getting to Zagreb from Sarajevo was a breeze, a short 50 minute flight will get you there. The Sarajevo airport is extremely efficient; security checks and finding your gate in the small airport is a breeze. The cab ride into town from the airport is 30 minutes and will set you back 50€. Be sure to have cash on hand for your cabbie.

Our small apartment was a twenty minute walk from town, located in a quaint neighborhood not far from the Sava river. The neighborhood had some great street food offerings, special shout out to Falafel Inc. and Submarine Burger. The falafel was mixed with beetroot, coriander and sweet potato falafel served with the best sweet potato fries. You can also get a craft kombucha made from a local brewery, which has been rare in our travels. A surprising treat. Submarine Burger is equally awesome, offering smash style burgers and homemade veggie patties too. Get some cheese fries with your burger and wash it down with Gricka Vjestica, my favorite Croatian brew.

There are some really special offerings in this charming place, our favorite was Curry Bowl, a small Sri Lankan restaurant in the Old Town. Kothu roti is their specialty; a dish comprised of meat (ours was black pork), chopped roti, scrambled egg, green onion, chili and a savory curry sauce. You can have it topped with cheese, and it comes with a rich gravy on the side. It has been awhile since we ate some spicy food, they will customize the heat for you too… Sri Lankan hot is the way to go.

The weather in Zagreb in September is cool and drizzly, on a gloomy evening out we enjoyed some Korean food at Omma. Jigae and Korean fried chicken were amazing, the service was incredible too. The best pizza in town for me was DG, although we did try a few others. The owner was actually the first to tell us about the history of Tomislav beer… Our mexican pizza was delicious, we wish we had found DG first. The pizza at Karijola had a paper thin almost saltine like crust, it was one of the strangest things I have ever eaten. If you like thin crust this is the place for you; salads here are incredible. Kai Street food is a little closer to the square hidden down a little alley giving it a kind of speak easy vibe. It is a hip and cozy place with great music, cool staff and great food. We had some sandos, a Japanese style sandwich made with milk bread, one with chicken katsu, the other marinated tofu. Served alongside some of the best sweet potato fries I have had, with crispy onion and aioli. There are some great diverse food offerings in Zagreb, we felt really spoiled with all of the variety.

Not far from Old town is the infamous Ban Jelacic Square, a lively pedestrian only area filled with cafes, shops and restaurants. Next door is the Dolac Market, where you can get an array of local foodstuffs, fresh fruit, veggies and flowers. Below the market are the butchers and fishmongers. The square has been around since 1641, slowly building up over time with the city around it.

King Tomislav Square is named after the first king of Croatia and is one of the central meeting places in town. He reigned from 925-928 and is responsible for founding the first Croatian state. The square was dedicated to Tomislav in 1927, when the monument by Robert Franges-Mihanovic was erected. One of the greatest beers ever crafted also bears his name. Tomislav, a rich black beer made with double malted barley introduced in 1925, boasting a 7.3% alcohol content. If you are in Croatia it is a must try.

Zagreb is a unique town full of chic and relaxed people. The women are impeccably dressed, the kids have an effortless street style. The young women don their baggy jeans and moto jackets, young men in bomber jackets and hoodies. Although the weather wasn’t the best when we were here we still enjoyed our time on the drier days. The rain was a nice reprieve from the scorching dry days in Mostar. The great thing about cafe culture is there is always a place to warm up with an incredible cup of coffee, one of my favorite pastimes.