After our short month stay in Podgorica it was time to catch the train to Bar, just a 15 minute walk to the station from our flat. The station is small but we were grateful to have access to a rail system again. The ride, just over an hour long, is a sight to see. Vineyards, fruit groves and olive farms stretch throughout the countryside disappearing into the mountains. We shared a train car with a lovely local who told us his favorite places to visit in the area. His son is currently in Miami practicing law, he seemed eager to practice his English as he hopes to visit him sometime soon.
It was nice having a short ride, although once off the train we realized there were only a few taxis waiting that already had passengers. An unmarked driver offered us a ride, after negotiating a price to our place we agreed to go with him, not having any other other options available. Our host had apparently upgraded our place to a one bedroom instead of the studio we had originally booked. It seems that her family owns the whole building we are in for seasonal rentals so it was a pleasant surprise. The view from our patio and bedroom window are incredible. We are situated on top of a huge hill overlooking the mountains. So far it has been a great workout going up and down the narrow streets to the beach.
Since we are here off season most of the restaurants are closed, but they are mostly the tourist traps so we don’t mind. Although there is limited night life we found a few cool bars to enjoy a pint. Dublin Pub, which has a cozy covered patio with heaters perfect for a cold fall night. We were glad to be able to find a place that serves Guinness, albeit pricey (6€) is delicious and fresh. The service here is friendly, a young Slovakian girl asked why we were there and shared how she ended up there herself. She thought she would miss her homeland more, but now she said she would never leave Bar. The youth have a tight knit community here, everyone knows each other and spends their time drinking coffee and craft beers laughing and hanging out. The pub plays blues music loudly, American music is hugely popular here, it is a nice change from the usual pop/rap you hear most everywhere else. 501 Dart Bar is another great little spot, a tiny bar downstairs serves local craft beer and homemade tinctures; upstairs are two dart boards and a huge tv that you can catch up with your favorite sports team or play video games.
The best food we had here is street or bar food, which is mostly all you can get here off season. The burgers from Burger Market were our Thanksgiving meal, served with paprika potato wedges and fresh coleslaw. They serve their fries with a side of smoky barbecue, which was a welcome addition as the only condiments you are typically offered is syrupy ketchup or yellow mustard. The pizza from Parapet is awesome too, a neapolitan style crust with roasted veggies and a simple but flavorful tomato sauce. Every time we have ordered a pizza in the Balkans they seem surprised we split one (they are plenty for two)!
Another local favorite is The Forest, a cozy cafe right on the water. We enjoyed chicken strips coated in sesame seeds, a Montenegrin favorite. Paired with crispy potato wedges and a side of grilled veggies, it is a generous and delicious meal. I don’t usually eat cake, but since we were celebrating my birthday here we indulged with a slice of coconut and snickers from Home of Cake, the best bakery if you are looking for sweet treats in Bar.
The best part of being here in November is there are few crowds and you can have a more local-like experience. There is not too much to do other than walk along the main promenade listening to the rocks roll into the ocean. The waves crash over the large rocks scattered across the beach. The sunsets are a spectacular display of colors, a time of day that the whole town seems to enjoy.
If you are staying in Bar a visit to Old Town (Stari Bar) is an absolute must. In early November you can expect some gorgeous weather, perfect for hiking up to this incredible little town. It takes 45 minutes to walk from the city center, and also has some great sights/viewpoints on the way.
The old fortress on the hill can be accessed for only 3€, which goes towards conservation and restoration projects throughout the site. The views from the ruins are exquisite, mountains behind and the city below. It is easy to spend a day here snaking through the rubble and also exploring the small chapels that reside on the property. Picturesque is an understatement, there are so many different vantage points to enjoy.
Stari is a tiny town full of tourist shops, but ones specializing in local delicacies like honey, jams and Raki. A plethora of cafes offer traditional food and pomegranate beer. Pomegranates are everywhere here, vendors will press you fresh juice as you sit along the steps leading up to the fortress. The local animals will keep you company along your journey, glad to walk and sit with you for a bit.
In the heart of the city are some old communist buildings transformed into a modern shopping experience. I am a huge fan of brutalist architecture, there are repurposed remnants of another time all over the Balkans. The contrast of old and new a daily reminder of how much the area has grown.
We have experienced some crazy weather the last couple of weeks… winds over 100km/h, sideways rain and some snow appearing on the tips of the mountains. Rumija, Bar’s tallest mountain separates the Adriatic Sea from Skadar Lake. Its highest peak sits at 1593 meters. I will miss seeing the mountain views outside of my windows and along the beach. We have deeply enjoyed our time here, it is a tranquil place of great beauty and friendly people. I am also excited to be exploring the seat of civilization next month in Athens… it will be welcomed chaos after such a relaxing time in Montenegro.
