After a particularly long bus ride from Tirana we were glad to get settled in a new place. Our lovely host met us and introduced us to his family, all of whom we share a floor of a small apartment building with. We were also welcomed later by the Nona who lives downstairs, she was delighted to hear that we were American; her sister lives in Michigan and she herself spent some time in California. She feeds and waters the neighborhood cats, which are many. We have already fallen in love with some of the local dogs, when they see you they come for pets and often escort you down the street.
Shkoder is a small but busy town surrounded by the Albanian Alps. Its history stretches back to 4th century BCE. Originally inhabited by the Illyrian tribes Labeates and Ardiaei, who ruled over a large territory between Albania and Croatia. It was captured by the Romans in 168 BCE, becoming an important trade hub and route for the military. It has a tumultuous past like most of Albania, changing hands from multiple empires throughout the ages.
We were hoping to get a reprieve from the summer heat, but the temps are still in the 30s (90s) with no sign of rain. Despite the weather we decided to take a hike outside of town, down the Buna river. There is a footbridge that connects to a little village of concrete and cinder blocks. Balkan music blasts throughout this charming place as children and stray dogs play in the streets. Xhamia e Ures se Bunes, the mosque on the other side of Buna footbridge echoes prayers throughout the day, the haunting sounds traveling for kilometers.
On the way to Faqedol, we walked up a steep and winding path to something straight out of Fallout, or dystopian video game. The majority of Albania is constructed of cinder block and concrete and you can often find remnants of interesting structures or skeletons of would be buildings. It is an urban exploration paradise.
After a steep and chaotic walk to the restaurant we were happy to take a rest. The views from Faqedol’s patio are breathtaking. The river and rolling countryside speckled with villages fill your view. The restaurant does not have a menu, but our lovely server suggested a few dishes… when we said it all sounds great she brought us one of all of their starters, nine delicious tapas style plates that were perfect for sharing. Stuffed mushrooms, baked feta with figs and honey, moussaka, roasted potatoes, meatballs in yogurt sauce, mixed pies, tzatziki, salad with burrata, and sujuk sausage with mash. Fortunately for us we had hiked 10k already and skipped the bread, it ended up being the most perfect meal with exceptional service. With beers and Raki our lunch with tip included was less than 4000leks (40$). We were a little worried not knowing how much everything was, but delighted when we enjoyed so many different dishes for so little. It is so easy to live like kings here, we are continually reminded how affordable life is in Albania. I wouldn’t recommend walking this way down the river however, it is a narrow two way highway with an overgrown shoulder…not exactly pedestrian friendly.
Headed the other way down the river is a different story, an expansive sidewalk stretches all the way to Shiroke. It is a quaint town ideal for making a day trip for an amazing meal and stunning views of Lake Shkoder. On the way are some points of interest… Kisha Katolike monastery, a massive old stone wall with alcoves and a large concrete skeleton of what would have been a church as well as plenty of local dogs sometimes joining you for part of our journey.
Further through town and winding along the countryside we came along a fantastic restaurant Taverna Shkodrane, serving traditional dishes and their specialty, fish cooked on roof tiles. On our 15k trek home we got to see wild horses frolicking in the hills with their young foals.
Nightlife in Shkoder is mostly along Rruga Kole Idromeno, a pedestrian only cobblestone walkway filled with outdoor cafes, gelataria and bars. The streets are full of families and friends enjoying coffee and cocktails all hours of the day. There is a lot of competing sounds from various venues blasting the typical pop music of the Balkans. The best bars and restaurants are off the main drag, mostly serving a variety of the typical mediterranean delights; stuffed peppers or eggplant, grilled veggies, moussaka and roasted potatoes… and of course huge piles of grilled meats.
Further down the main drag away from the city center were our favorite jewels, Moon Lounge and Eko Club. Moon lounge has a fantastic patio offering a great view of the mountains and people strolling below. Eko is the place for fresh juice and unusual spirits. They have a ton of infused Raki and other types of local brandy. Their signature cocktails include a mix of fresh juice and Raki and they serve the best Baklava in town. Eclectic music matches the decor and it is easy to make some friends spending time on the patio.
The friends you meet along the way…
A cool place to check out while in Shkoder is the Venice mask factory. They are the largest makers Venetian masks in the world. They even supplied the masks for Kubrick’s Eyes Wide Shut, his last and worst movie, but the set and costume designs were incredible. The amount of artistry in some of the masks are mind blowing, hundreds of hours and multiple artists have collaborated on the most intricate ones. They also sell some reasonably priced half masks and miniatures for the traveling tourists. The museum is free but you can also take a tour of the workshop for a few euros if you want to see how they are made. The Italian owner has had this space for 25 years and prides himself on keeping the technique of Venetian mask making alive.
The greatest meal in town is Puri, a local favorite with some special offerings made with love and warm, friendly service. Our server made some amazing recommendations, Fathers Rice and Pijeskavica with potatoes. Fathers Rice, the house specialty consists of perfectly cooked rice, cannellini beans in sauce with a side of goulash and a side salad. The accompanying dish is a mothers meatball with shredded cabbage and grilled kackavall cheese. It is an insanely delicious yet simple dish. My recommendation is to come hungry and have someone to help share it! Pijeskavica is a Serbian dish consisting of a mix of lamb, pork and beef grilled like a burger and commonly found throughout the Balkans. Puri stuffs theirs with ham and cheese and a side of perfectly cooked fries. Don’t forget to add a side of Tzatziki, theirs is ridiculously good and served with veggies. On our second visit our server remembered us and treated us to a Raki after our meal. It is the best place to eat in Shkoder if you are looking for traditional fare.
There is some amazing pizza in Albania, you just need to lookout for Napoletana style places like Pizzeria Italia. The pizzas have the perfect crust and are ridiculously cheap. My vegetarian pizza was 500leks ($5), which includes lunch for the next day as you can only eat half in one sitting. There is even a NY style slice place called American Pizza, you can grab a great slice on the go after drinks out. They have a good selection of rotating pies and always a vegetarian option.
Although there is not a ton of stuff to do in Shkoder we enjoyed our time here immensely. After eight months in Albania we are getting nostalgic about our departure. I am happy to be continuing our journey but I will deeply miss this ruggedly beautiful place and the overwhelming hospitality of the Albanian people.