After a long 5 hour trip from Sarande we were so glad to be back in the city. The two days in January were hardly enough to experience everything this place has to offer. June seemed like the perfect time to return, the coastal towns were preparing for the summer crowds, something we were happy to do without. Our hosts cousin met us with our keys and walked us to our charming studio nestled in a quiet neighborhood slightly north of Skanderbeg Square, the heart of Tirana. Our small flat was modern yet cozy, surrounded by shops, bakeries and cafes. It was also located a few blocks from the local bazaar and Si Dielli one of our favorite places to grab a cold Puka beer and watch the bustling people buy local delicacies and tourist merchandise.

The jewel of the bazaar is te Met Kofta, a tiny stall sandwiched by Nur restaurant on either side. It is family run and been open since 1957. The only thing they serve is Qofte, or finger shaped beef seasoned with herbs and spices. The grill is going continuously from 10am-10pm, cooking Qofte over charcoal. You can get them plain or in Buke (bread). Be prepared to wait in line, it is self service and you never know how many the persons in front of you will order. Many a time we watched as single people bought out the whole grill while you patiently await your turn. It is something so simple yet so perfect, if you are in Tirana it is an absolute must.

Just south of the bazaar is Skanderbeg Square, where a lot of the cultural buildings reside along with the monument to Skanderbeg himself. He is considered an hero for his resistance to the Ottomans in the 1400s. The square is also home to the Palace of Culture, the National History Museum and the House of Leaves Museum as well as the National Theatre of Opera and Ballet. During the summer the square hosts huge outdoor concerts that can be enjoyed for free in the square’s outskirts. Throughout the day a variety of buskers can be heard playing traditional music in varying instruments… accordion, clarinet, guitar and a plethora of percussion.

A few blocks from the square is the ruins of the Fortress of Justinian, or simply Tirana Castle. The leftovers from this Byzantine era fortress is now packed with handicraft shops, cafes and restaurants. Further down Rruga Abdi Toptani is the beloved Toptani shopping center, a monstrous mall with 7 floors of upscale retail shops, cafes and an upstairs arcade with laser tag for the kids. Abdi Toptani was a nineteenth century politician that signed the Declaration of Independence and served as the Minister of Finances for the Provisional Government of Albania in 1912. The upper floors have massive windows and a picturesque view of the mountains. It is a great place to cool off from the summer heat, but the shopping is expensive and limited. Most people come to have a coffee or beer with some pizza and young people to hang out with friends and play games.

Another neighborhood site to check out is Bunk Art II, a history museum located in a communist era nuclear pit bunker. Built between 1981-86 by the Ministry of the Interior it is considered to be one of the great works during the communist regime. Interestingly, both who ordered the construction of this facility, Prime Minister Mehmet Shehu and dictator Enver Hoxha both died before its completion. The 24 rooms are filled with memorials, spy craft and military gear from the changing regimes throughout three eras: The Gendarmerie from Independence to WWII 1912-1939, Forces of order from Nazi-fascist occupation to Liberation 1939-1944, and Police and Security during the dictatorship 1944-1991. It is a solemn but poignant experience giving in depth perspective to the different times. Albania has a tumultuous and fascinating history, even if you are not a historian this place is a must see.

Right around the corner from Bunk Art is Reja-The Cloud, an interactive outdoor art sculpture in front of the National Gallery of Arts. You can experience the work from all angles, inside and several layers on top. It is a great spot to take a rest and watch the bustle of this sprawling city.

The Pyramid of Tirana is another place to sit and take in some amazing panoramic views of the city. Originally, the Pyramid was a museum opened in 1988 dedicated to Enver Hoxha, the long time leader of communist Albania. The building was designed by his daughter Pranvera and her husband Klement Kolaneci and was said to be the most expensive building in Albania at the time. After the fall of communism in 1991 the museum was repurposed as a conference center and was later used a a NATO base during the Kosovo war in 1999. In the early 2000s it was then used as a broadcasting center until 2018 when the structure was deemed an IT youth center focusing on computer programming and robotics. The structure is surrounded by staircases leading to the top, then branching out with multiple terraces at varying points. The grounds are surrounded by a rainbow of accompanying buildings for meeting spaces and office space. There was construction going on at the time of our visit so we were unable to go inside, but the hike to the top and the views once there is well worth the time.