Things to do: Sarande


Most of our time was spent on our patio after the daily promenade along the main drag in town. There are some great restaurants to eat at and a vibrant group of expats that meet at various places, our favorite being the Dick and Devil pub, owned by a lovely couple from Florida. We met people from all over the world there from Latvia, South Africa, Scotland, Canada, England and of course the US. It was a great place to hear stories of different places, some of which are now on our future travel itinerary. The beers are cheap and ice cold and the food amazing. Jamie (the devil), is an incredible creator of both food and libations. She made a spicy tomato juice on the fly for one of the greatest bloody mary’s I have ever had. She also is known for her infused raki drinks ranging from espresso to jellybean. Eric (the dick) made one of the best burgers we have had since our travels began, served with a side of fresh spicy coleslaw. I am regretting not taking hipster pictures of the food, Jamie also made delicious homemade perogies filled with potato and cheese or veggies and covered in buffalo sauce (everyone’s favorite). It was awesome to meet fellow travelers and get tips of where to go, along with sharing some great company.

Another favorite in town is Haxhi, an amazing local place serving delicious seafood. We were lucky to have arrived in May at the height of mussel season. Lake Butrint, right outside Sarande contains a salt lagoon perfect for raising mussels. They are inexpensive and plentiful during late spring and summer. The best seafood dishes I had during our stay were both at Haxhi… a delicious mussel stew with tomatoes and garlic served with crusty bread and calamari with roasted vegetables with beet purée. They also have an amazing caesar salad that can easily feed two. The service is excellent, we were always treated to a raki or limoncello after dinner accompanied with a small taste of a local desert with fruit. Located across the street was No Name, our favorite place for coffee, fresh juice or a cold beer. Also family owned and fantastic friendly service. It has one of the best views of the bay and is also home to a hand full of tortoises, which were always so fun to see.

If you are looking for a decent burger hit The Nomad, the real reason to come here though is for their home fries… some of the greatest potatoes I have eaten. They are both fluffy and crunchy at the same time. The brioche is excellent and toasted to perfection, and while they don’t have much in the way of vegetarian options my mushroom sandwich was super tasty.

The produce here is great so I am cooking a lot, eating mostly some form of sallate fshati (aka greek or village salad). Albanian kackavall, and hard white cheese similar to feta can be found everywhere. Kackavall is typically made with cows milk, while feta is typically sheep or goat (my favorite). It is the highlight to my various salads and pastas along with the best olive oil I have had the pleasure of tasting. High quality dried pasta can be found in any grocery or local market. If you can’t find local, there are many brands imported from Italy, albeit more expensive. Our lovely neighbors would occasionally drop a dish of homemade treats at our doorstep if they heard us on our patio, one of the greatest experiences of living in Sarandë without a doubt. The generosity of the people in Albania both local and foreign are unmatched. I am constantly reminded of the love and pride put into not only hospitality but a daily way of life.