The greatest way to travel in Poland is by train. They run frequently and (mostly) on time, assuring you can arrive in your destination with minimal delay. The countryside is beautiful; farmlands and small villas stretch into the horizon. This may be the flattest country I have visited, making it an excellent place for expansive farms growing wheat, corn and sugar beets. The train from Warsaw to Krakow is approximately 2.5 hrs, which to me is the perfect amount of time to enjoy a cup of coffee and a local beer. The dining car was also offering perogi, along with a variety of cakes and snacks.
Our flat is just an 8 minute cab ride from the station. Looking at a map Krakow appears to be spread out, some neighborhoods fall on the other side of the Vistula River. In reality, this city is so walkable; from our place it is just 15 minutes on foot across the Powstancow bridge. Along the riverside is a seemingly infinite greenspace with bike paths snaking throughout. Krakow is designed with pedestrians and cyclists in mind, it is a meticulously planned network enabling you to traverse this incredible city however you like. The tram system is also extensive if you prefer a less physical mode of transport.
Our complex was also a thoughtfully planned neighborhood with blocks of modern apartments surrounding parks and fountains for neighbors to gather with their children to play in the afternoons. At night, the courtyards were beautifully lit, perfect for us that prefer a summer stroll after the sun goes down. The weather in July/August was warm (20c) during the day, but refreshingly crisp at night. The rain is frequent but brief; a welcome change from the dry Balkan summers we are used to.
Our flat was a cozy one bedroom on the sixth floor. One of the most well equipped places we have stayed. The only caveat was no air conditioning, but that was easily solved by an inexpensive tower fan that our gracious host reimbursed us for. Another blissful thing is the apparent lack of mosquitos; it is the first summer of my life that I was not completely eaten by the pests. Being severely allergic to their bites, it made for an unexpectedly peaceful summer.
Setting out for our first evening we stumbled upon Pub Pod Ziemia, an underground old building featuring local metal in a tiny but unique venue. Only 20 zloty to see three bands, an amazing experience for our first night in Krakow. It was a small place with a dungeon-like feel. It definitely set the mood for the evening. They have ice cold Kozel dark, one of my favorite beers, paired excellently with blackberry vodka (our bartenders recommendation). Flavored vodka can be found everywhere of course, being the national drink. My particular favorite being quince… the vodka is served chilled, a delight on a summer evening.
The next day we grabbed some lunch at Krowa Mac Burger, the pulled pork with potato pancake and jalapeño was incredible, as well as the smash burger and sweet potato fries. Super friendly service and great atmosphere… also very close to Schindler’s Enamel Factory and museum, if you are on the other side of the river.
There is some stunning stone and brickwork here, old buildings intermixed with the new. Krakow has a relaxed atmosphere, which makes sense when considering their tumultuous past. The nights are alive, large groups of fiends sharing drinks and conversation. Laughter fills the air, along with the smells of Zapiekanki; the favorite Polish street food. This delicious concoction is comprised of toasted bread topped with mushrooms, cheese and a variety of other toppings. Those three ingredients are a must though, I enjoyed several during our stay. Zapiekanki are cheap, filling and insanely good street food. Perfect for a summer night walking through the streets of this incredible city.
One of the greatest things about summertime in Poland is the rain. I can’t count how many summers I have endured without a drop of the stuff. The showers are relatively frequent, but not lasting too long. We got caught out a few times without our umbrella, but there is always a place to hang out until the worst of it is over. I was lucky to catch an exquisite double rainbow from our patio after one such storms. Also hung out at Beer Street bar with an extremely wet pigeon underneath a shared umbrella one afternoon.
There are a plethora of museums to see, even being here a month is not enough time to see them all. I was excited to find that one of Da Vinci’s paintings, Lady with an Ermine, is home here. It can be found at the Czartoryski Museum, alongside a stunning Rembrandt pastoral landscape, and an enormous collection of weapons and armor throughout Polish history. The Winged Hussar armor was particularly impressive; it is easy to imagine the fear their rivals must have felt seeing such a powerful visage upon horseback.
The MNK Sukiennice is located in Rynek Glowny, the main square in Krakow. It dates back to the 13th century, and is the second largest square from Medieval times; Charles Square in Prague being the first. The main square is surrounded by townhouses and elaborate churches, most notably St. Mary’s Balisica which was undergoing restoration during our stay. The Square is teeming with vendors selling art and souvenirs, as well as street performers entertaining fellow travelers and passerby. The MNK is a small museum, but filled with exceptional Polish artists. If you are in the square it is worth a visit. Underneath the museum is a large bazaar, where you can find an enormous array of amber and other local goods.
Seeing all the incredible polish art and artifacts was great, but the best museum experience in my opinion is the Pinball Museum. It is the largest collection of vintage pinball machines I have ever seen. Lots of great stuff from the 70’s in particular. An all day pass is only 70PLN ($18). You can play all you want, leave and come back if you like. It is an easy way to spend the afternoon, we were there for 3 hours trying each and every machine.
My favorite place to hang out at night was easily Alchemia. A hip gastropub with a small hidden dance club in its basement. They have incredible DJ’s on the weekend, and were fortunate enough to visit a few times. It is right next to the Okraglak food court, a great place to grab some street food after a night out. The Okraglak has a makeshift bazaar during the day where you can find all sorts of trinkets and antiques. There is also an amazing vinyl merchant who had diverse offerings. If I had a record player, I would have definitely purchased some.
Even just spending the summer days roaming the picturesque streets enjoying the architecture and murals is a wonderful way to pass the days. I must admit eating myself silly while here too. Polish cuisine is one of my favorites; you can’t beat potato pancakes with perogi, (especially with a side of coleslaw). Krakow is also a street food paradise. There are a few food truck parks in town, and of course when you are visiting Poland eating a kielbasa should be top of your list.
If pizza is your thing, grab some napolitana pizza at Numero UNO. We were lucky enough to have this place in our neighborhood, the service was amazing and so is the pizza. Some of the best dough I have eaten in my travels (including Italy!). Special shout out to Nostra Italiana as well, the food is incredible wherever you go. I didn’t eat too many perogi out when I was visiting, only because you can buy fresh made in the grocery store. So easy to pan fry them with some onions and a side of sour cream, and of course some coleslaw.
There is a touching mural honoring the life of Irena Sendlerova, whom saved hundreds of children during WWII. Although the grounds are gated, it is mostly visible from Stara Synagoga’s yard. This city is full of incredible street art, every neighborhood has some gems.
Krakow is somewhere I could easily stay long term. This exquisite city has everything… art, incredible music, cool taverns, and an endless array of delicious food. It is also pristine in its beauty; a combination of thoughtful urban planning combined with historic architecture. Whether you are a history buff, foodie, art connoisseur, or just love to go out, Krakow is a place for you. 10/10 recommend coming here in summer, it is the most pleasant July/August I have spent in my lifetime.
